Best Fish Finder For The Money – Unbiased Reviews & Buyers Guide For 2019 (Chirp, Sonar, Depth, Portable)

Comparison Table

Best Fish Finder Reviews 2019

2. Garmin echoMAP CHIRP 94sv Fish Finder

3. Humminbird HELIX 5 G2 Fish Finder

4. Humminbird HELIX 7 CHIRP Mega DI GPS G3 (Best Fish Finder Runner Up)

5. Lowrance Hook2 5 TripleShot Fish Finder

6. Humminbird PiranhaMAX 4

7. Deep Smart Sonar PRO+ Fish Finder

8. Humminbird Solix 10 Mega SI+ G2

9. Raymarine Axiom 7 (Best Fish Finder)

Different Types of Fish Finders

Although there are many different fish finder products available on the market, we can generally divide them into three types based on its functions.

You can choose between these three types according to your fishing style and needs:

Mountable Fish Finder

Portable (Handheld) Fish Finder

With this type, you get a small display unit (4” or below) and a portable transducer with temporary mounts. Typically this type operates on (rechargeable) battery. Great choice if you rent your boats.

Wireless Fish Finder

What Is a Good Price For a Fish Finder?

Answering this question can be fairly difficult since there are a lot of factors that should be considered, depending on your needs, fishing style, location of your fishing spots, and so on.

Fish finders can be as affordable as under $200, while truly high-end models can cost above $1,000.

First, consider the location of your fishing spot and what type of fish you are going to catch. Based on those, consult our Important Considerations section below and determine what features you will need for your purpose. In most cases, you’d want to look for the most affordable model that offers all (at least most) the features you need.

In general, however, expect to spend at least $300 and under $500 for a decent fish finder. You can certainly opt for more expensive products according to your budget, but spending above $1,000 is usually overkill. So, your ideal range should be between $300 and $1,000 to get the best fishfinder for you.

Important Considerations When Choosing a Fish Finder

Transducer

Transducer is an essential element of any fish finder, and in a nutshell, is an electrical device that converts energy from one form to another.

A microphone—converting our voice into electrical energy—, is technically a transducer. In the case of fish finders, the transducer converts electrical energy into sonar waves, and vice versa.

The transducer emits sound waves and receives the returning echoes, this is the principle of sonar for locating objects underwater. The transducer will then send the converted data to the central display unit so we can read the data.

As this is the core functionality of a fish finder, we can see how a transducer is really important.

There are three main factors when considering a transducer: mount type (which will also dictate material), cone angle, and frequency.

Transducer Mount Type

Note: there are two different elements of a finder that requires mounting: the display unit (called binnacle mount) and the transduce. Here we are specifically discussing the transducer mount.

There are several types of transducer mounts available:

Transom Mount

The most common type, and generally the most affordable, this mount is mounted on the transom—hence the name—.

Transom mount is typically the most affordable type, and commonly made of plastic. As a result, it is less durable than other types.

It is very versatile and can work in almost all situations, especially in smaller boats.

Yet, it is not advised to use them with larger boats over 30-feet in length, and boats moving at an exceptionally high speed—due to the lower quality of the build—.

Another important consideration is that a transom mount is not a permanent attachment, so you can, for example, attach it to a small boat or kayak temporarily.

Through-Hull Mount

Through-hull mounted transducers are generally much sturdier, and thus are more reliable at higher speeds. The strongest, most durable mount type, but also usually the most expensive.

Fish finders that utilize through-hull mounted transducers are generally designed for high-speed boats and long-range fish detections.

In-Hull Mount

This type is the easiest to install since you wouldn’t need to drill an additional hole to place the transducer. However, this type requires specific types of hull material that can be penetrated by sonar waves. This is why the transducers using this mount is often called “shoot-through” transducers.

Also, when picking out a through-hull or in-hull transducer, it’s important to choose the right material based on your hull material:

• Fiberglass or wood hulls will typically need bronze mounting/housing
• Aluminum or steel hulls need stainless-steel mounting
• Fiberglass or plastic hulls can work with plastic mounting

Transducer Cone Angle

Cone angle refers to the width of the sound wave emitted into the water for your boat, for sonar detection purpose.

Transducers can come with cone angles ranging from a mere 9 degrees to more than 60 degrees. However, most fish finders tend to offer a cone angle between 16 and 20 degrees. A 20 degree cone angle is a decent choice for most fishing needs.

Some also offers multiple beams. Dual and triple beams transducers will cover more areas in lower depth, so it’s a better choice if you fish in shallow water. However, they can be significantly more expensive.

Transducer Frequency

Frequency here refers to the frequency of the sound wave emitted by the transducer. The higher the frequency, the wider the cone angle. However, higher frequency will produce a shorter soundwave, so it won’t be able to reach deep areas.

Transducers usually come in 50, 83, 192, or 200 kHz sound frequencies, although some really high-end fish finders can reach 400 kHz or more.

In general, if you want to fish in mainly shallow waters, higher frequencies (192 or 200 kHz) are better, but lower frequencies (50 kHz) are better for deep waters.

Some units can switch back and forth between high and low frequencies, so this might be your best bet if you are looking for versatility.

Also, there are models that operate on both types of frequencies (dual-frequency) and even multiple frequencies. Typically these models with dual or multiple frequencies will also involve a larger display unit so you can view readings from each frequency in a split-screen.

CHIRP Sonar and CHIRP Transducers

CHIRP, stands for Compressed High-Intensity Radiated Pulse, is the latest, most sophisticated sonar technology available today.

Standard sonar sends 1 frequency at a time. So, if you want two different frequencies, you will need two different transducers.

CHIRP sonar, on the other hand, emits sweeping frequencies from low to high continuously, and the transducer with CHIRP scanning capability will then interpret the different reflected frequencies individually. As a result, CHIRP sonar produces a much clearer image with a higher resolution.

Newer models offer CHIRP sonar capabilities. While they are relatively expensive, know that you’re in for a treat with a CHIRP transducer.

Display Unit

If the transducer is about how well the fish finder unit can locate the fishes, the display unit is about how well it can show you the information—the user experience—.

In many cases, how we choose a display is similar to choosing an underwater fishing camera, although it’s also important to consider some technical factors like how well it presents the data (i.e. with colorful charts, easy to read graphics, etc.).

Here are some important factors when considering a display:

Monochrome VS Color

Pretty self-explanatory. Colored screens are the standard nowadays, but the old-school black and white screens are still a viable option in more affordable models.

Monochrome screens, however, are harder to read in dark or cloudy conditions.

Screen Resolution

Screen resolution ultimately refers to how many pixels a screen will display. The more pixels, the more details and the smoother you’ll see the displayed images.

You should, at the bare minimum, look for at least 240x160 pixels resolution (keep in mind, this is fairly low-res). In newer models—including the ones we have reviewed above—, higher resolutions or even HD resolutions are quite common and affordable.

Size

Different models come in various screen sizes from around 4” to 9” screens. The larger the screen, the more expensive.

Also, remember that it’s harder (and more expensive) to maintain high screen resolution with a larger screen. If you are planning to get a bigger screen (7” or above), pay extra attention to the screen’s resolution to ensure you’ll get the desired clarity and details.

Power

The wattage of the fish finder unit will determine speed and depth.

The higher the wattage, the faster the projected soundwave will move, and the deeper it can penetrate water.

The frequency of the soundwave will also affects power usage, for example:

• With a frequency of 50kHz and 100 watts of power, you can reach up to 400 feet in depth.
• With a similar power of 100 watts, yet 240kHz of frequency, we can only each 100 feet of depth.

So, in general, if you fish in mainly shallow waters, you won’t need a high wattage, but you can opt for higher frequency.

Scanning/Imaging Methods

There are two different scanning, or imaging modes performed by different fish finders: downscan (or down imaging) and sidescan (side imaging).

Side imaging sonar works by using two beams—positioned on each side of your vessel— pointed slightly upwards.

A side imaging fish finder allows us to scan a wider area of water and to see schools in great detail as we pass. However, the downside of side scan sonar is that it won’t produce effective imaging in deep waters, as it won’t cover too much area below your boat.

This is where a down imaging sonar comes in.

Down imaging sonar utilizes a single transducer that emits a thin, but powerful sound wave directly below your boat. Thus, a downscan fish finder is usually the better bet for monitoring bait schools in deep water.

Down imaging can offer very detailed view of what’s beneath your boat, and so is generally a better choice if you like stationary fishing.

Side imaging, on the other hand, is better when you are scanning for shallow diving fish.

Portable VS Mounted

Portable models are generally more affordable—due to their smaller size—, and so they are often portrayed as just that, an affordable alternative to a “real”, bigger, mounted fish finder.

However, it can’t be further from the truth. There are portable fish finders that offer really advanced transducers and really high screen resolutions, and on the other hand, there are many affordable mounted/fixed models with large screens.

It’s true, however, that in general a portable fish finder that is comparable (in price) to a fixed fish finder will offer less overall quality.

So, when comparing the two, it’s best to focus on the main issue that is portability. If you, for example, rent different boats all the time, prefer smaller boats, or wanted to use the fish finder for kayaking, then a portable finder is a better choice.

On the other hand, if you want more advanced technology for the same budget, a fixed/mounted finder is a better bet. Fixed models are also usually more stable and reliable, so it’s a better choice for boats with higher speeds. Also, they are generally more consistent and you wouldn’t need to re-tweak the settings all the time.

GPS Integration

We are all familiar with the GPS technology nowadays, and many models also offer GPS/Chartplotter feature, which can provide various benefits:

• Navionics and Charting: GPS can provide an easier time to navigate your way to prime fishing grounds or to find your way back to dry land. Some of the GPS fish models offer the ability to customize your charts, which can be useful so you can navigate to the right fishing spot every time.
• Water Temperature: You might encounter fishing spots where cold and warm waters meet, and a GPS feature will help you navigate between water temperatures. You can, for example, track your next catch based on whether it's a cold water or warm water species.
• Location Saving: You can save different locations like different prime fishing spots, dangerous areas, and so on. So you can navigate to these locations accurately.
• Depth Finder: GPS models offer both mapping and charting features, so you can get a more accurate reading of the land in a way that isn’t possible with a standard fish finder. You can get a better insight about the bottom of the water, and can easily decipher the depth readings.

Even if you’ve already familiar with a standard fish finder, using a GPS—or Chartplotter—fish finder will be a little bit different. Here are some tips you can use to make the most of your GPS feature:

1. Buoys: Buoys are used to mark different water depths and shipping lanes on water. A GPS feature can help you track the position of these buoys without needing to plot them by yourself.
2. Contour Lines: These lines are designed to show you the topography below the water. Knowing the accurate position of hills and valleys beneath your vessels can be beneficial, since certain fish tend to swim only in specific depths. This can result in significant increase of your haul.
3. Shipwrecks: Some GPS units can effectively highlight shipwrecks locations on the map. This can be useful since fish tend to swim around shipwrecks, and can also protect your boat from potential dangers when exploring around.
4. Seabed: Some fish species tend to hang out at specific depths, and a GPS tracking will offer a more accurate reading of the seabed’s layout. This will provide you with a better chance to increase your haul by offering a more optimal positioning.

Water Resistance

If you are going to use the fish finder on an open vessel, then water resistance is going to be an important factor.

Check JIS or IPX ratings, which are usually listed on the product’s specifications. An IPX rating of 4 (IPX4) means the device is fairly safe from splashing water, but it won’t be sufficient if, for example, you are on a kayak.

An IPX rating of IPX5 or IPX6 means the finder can resist fairly high pressure of water jets, and IPX7 will mean you can safely submerge the unit up to 10 feet deep of water, for as long as 30 minutes.

Lastly, IPX8-rated products can stay underwater for an extended period of time.

Best Practices In Using Your Fish Finder

So, you just got your brand new fish finder and you can’t wait to try it out on your fishing trip.

It’s certainly good to be excited, but don’t forget that it’s important to prepare ahead so you can make the most of your new tool (toy).

Below, is a step-by-step guide for the best practices in setting up and using your fish finder.

1. Read The User’s Manual

Yes, not all of us like to read, but it’s a necessary step. Keep in mind that today’s user manuals are generally not that long and will only be a few minutes of reading.

Familiarize yourself with how to set up and program the fish finder, how to mount it, and how to read the data. If necessary, you can also search online for forums, communities and reviews for more clarity about certain issues.

2. Mounting The Fish Finder

Again, refer to the user’s manual on the recommended placement to mount the finder—and how to mount it—. Different fish finders might require different mounting process and placement.

Also, depending on the model, you might also need to mount the display unit beside the transducer. Refer to our transducer mount section below for more information

3. Setting Up The Fish Finder

When you turn on the fish finder, all models will start with the automatic mode, operating on pre-programmed settings. If you want, you can switch it to the manual mode to customize the finder according to your preferences and needs.

However, it’s better to leave it on automatic mode first and “test-drive” the system on the water to get the basic idea of the visual data presentation, clarity of the detection, whether it’s mounted properly, etc. Make your adjustments after you’ve got a grasp of its behaviour.

4. Make The Necessary Adjustments

The automatic mode, in essence, is allowing the sonar unit to automatically set the sensitivity (power output). It might or might not be effective according to your preferences, and this is how a manual adjustment can help you.

Here are the steps you can follow to make a proper manual adjustment:

• Bring your boat to a depth above 20 feet. It is best not to make manual adjustments in shallow water, since the cone angle will be smaller in lower depths. If you commonly fish in deep water, bring your boat to a depth you commonly fish in.
• Turn of the auto-sensitivity feature, switch to manual mode, depending on your model. Make sure all automatic features are off, including fish ID if the finder has the feature.
• Now, manually adjust the range of the fish finder to more than twice the actual depth. For example, if you are in 30 feet of water, adjust the range to 65 or 70 feet (60 feet will not work). If the model allows, you can set the depth to three times or more, it will work just as well.
• Adjust gain or sensitivity until you can only see a faint echo from twice your actual depth. For example if your depth is 30ft, you will see this echo at 60ft. This is called the second echo, that when present, indicates that optimal echo signal is received by the transducer. If your sensitivity is too high, this signal will be distorted. Make your adjustment until you get this second echo.
• Re-adjust the range to the actual depth, or you can turn on the auto-range/auto depth feature. In general, avoid using auto-sensitivity feature (unless it’s an advanced model with really good auto-sensitivity feature) and fish ID (we will discuss more about fish ID below).

The following factors can affect the sonar’s sensitivity:

1. Water depth
2. Water temperature and density
3. Clarity
4. Salinity
5. Boat speed: less sensitivity is required when the boat is moving at a slower speed.

5. Fish ID Setting

The Fish ID feature will allow us to identify fish automatically, which is ideal if this is your first fish finder or a complete fishing beginner, or when you are just figuring out a brand new finder.

However, after you’ve adjusted to the fish finder’s display interface, it is better to turn it off. By turning the fish ID off, you can get a better view of what’s actually going on underneath the waves.

6. Using Auto Range/Auto Depth

The auto depth feature, as the name suggests, will automatically track the depth of the water, so you can get an accurate information of how far down it is. In most cases, it’s best to leave the auto range feature on, but you can make some adjustments.

For example, you can hide the first few feet and just above the true bottom. This can be useful if you know the fish is not on these depths, and so the sonar can set its sight on the depth that matters.

7. Reading Depth Cursor

The depth cursor is a line that goes across the display screen, and will provide information on how far down the fish actually is. This will provide you with an easier time to determine where to put your bait, and how deep. The depth cursor will constantly move up and down the fish, according to the fish’s current position.

8. Adjusting Suppressor Setting

Generally, you don’t want to keep the suppressor on at all times, since it can block the sonar sound waves.

Suppressor, however, can be useful to block out the background noises when your boat is moving at a relatively high speed.

If your transducer is installed correctly, usually the suppressor setting will be automatic and will perform correctly. However, you can make manual adjustments when necessary.

FAQ's About Fish Finders

Conclusion

A fish finder is a fisherman’s best friend, an affordable solution to improve your haul.

While there are many different types and sets of features available, the best way to make your choice is to first figure out your needs: your fishing style, your fishing location, and ultimately, your budget.

In this best fish finder article the products we have reviewed above, as well as the buying guide, should help you in making a better informed decision to purchase the perfect fish finder for you.